vegetarian diet in paris

Here are the three food groups for vegetarians in Paris: cheese, crêpes, ice cream.

Which was funny in 2005 because it was very nearly true. A vegetarian in a traditional bistro was choosing between an omelette and a side of green beans, and getting a lecture about it.

That city is gone. Paris now has more vegetarian and vegan restaurants than it can keep track of, a whole generation of néo-bistrots where the vegetable plate is the thing the kitchen is proud of, and a Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant in the 8th. The Marais and the 10th and 11th arrondissements are where the density is.

Three things that still catch people out. Stock is the perennial trap, and a soupe à l'oignon or a risotto is usually made with meat stock unless it says otherwise. Lardons turn up uninvited in salads, especially a frisée. And je suis végétarien is understood everywhere now, but sans viande is sometimes taken to still allow fish, so say ni viande ni poisson if you mean it.

The original three food groups remain excellent, though, and a cheese crêpe on the street at midnight is still the correct answer to most questions.

Posted 20 June 2005 by Cherie in Eurail Planning